Last year, the fortune cookie turned 90 - that is, if you believe that Cantonese immigrant David Jung started distributing message-filled cookies outside his Los Angeles noodle company in 1916.
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Enter any Chinese restaurant and you'll spot them: in a bowl near the door, atop a check tray at the waitress station, cracked open and littering a table full of diners finishing their meal. and overseas.įortune cookies are arguably the most important restaurant staple not on menus in Chinatowns across America. We were on our way to visit the heat and heart of the cookie oven itself: the company's 24-hour factory and warehouse, which is dedicated entirely to churning out 4 million cookies a day, seven days a week, and shipping them out to more than 400 distributors in the U.S.
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of sales and marketing, Wong is actually the de facto fortune cookie scion at the helm of the largest fortune cookie manufacturer in the world, the family-owned-and-run Wonton Food Inc. Though he carries the decidedly mundane title of V.P. From there, you could see the old Swingline stapler factory, recently repurposed to house the Museum of Modern Art's library and archives. Wong, a compact 39-year-old with an easy laugh and thinning hair, picked me up in a silver Acura at the corner of Queens Boulevard, a heavily trafficked area with an industrial pedigree, adjacent to the subway line. It was a day in which power grids went down and subway trains stalled after their third rails warped from the near-record heat.
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I didn't go to the end of the line that morning - that would be Main Street, Flushing - but if I had, I would have landed smack in the middle of New York's biggest Chinatown, home to the city's largest Chinese population, and the place I was born. On a 98-degree day in New York last summer, I took the 7 train to 33rd Street in Long Island City, Queens, to meet Derrick Wong.